Then & Now

(left) Lady Curzon, in Charles Fredrick Worth ‘Peacock Dress’, 1902-3. Oil on Canvas, attributed to William Logsdail, English (1859-1844). (right) Mary Jane Russell in Dior  gown. Photograph: Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper’s Bazaar, October 1951.

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A Fashion Victim Through and Through

Since I heard Cintra Wilson’s talk on FIT’s Fashion & Music symposium, I really did started to notice that many fashion designers and stylist today consider being a dead super model to be the essence of cool. Raising your eyebrows? I did too, but here, I collected some very convincing images to illustrate that indeed fashion magazines today are conveying the message that being literally a fashion victim (and when I say victim, I mean rape and murder victim) is  what you want to be.

At first I wanted to use this idea for a Then & Now post, but really, I couldn’t think of a time when being dead was so fashionable, can you?

He wants us all dead! Marc Jacobs is one of the biggest offenders, here model Lara Stone is dumped by the road, but she’s happy because she still has her Louis Vuitton bag. An ad for Louis Vuitton. Model: Lara Stone

Prada is another big offender, her models are almost always drop dead.

Prada also likes them to die in pairs, it’s sexier this way. An ad for the Fairy Handbags from 2010.

Editorial in Dazed and Confused August 2011. photographer: Kacper Kasprzyk, stylist: Karen Langley.

This one just dropped dead while on vacation in Italy, maybe she regretted eating too much pasta and decided to fashionably end it all. Tar Magazine, The Road To Palermo. source: trendland.com

Do you believe Cintra now?? These fashion victims drop dead all over, even in the office, on the scanner! They don’t care though, they have their beautiful “tribal” jewelry, and that’s all they need. Photographer Henry Hargreaves’ Scanner Photoshoot. Source: Trendland.com

And even brides love to be dead! Bride Under Black Water. Styling: Li Agmon and Lital Cohen. Source: Walla.com

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Serendipity with Ari Seth Cohen

 By Fiona Tedds

A couple of months ago, I had the pleasure of visiting my friend the actress Harriet Walter who was performing at the Bard Graduate Center. She had compiled a book of amazing photographs of older women and whilst we chatted about this, we both mentioned a movie trailer we had seen for a documentary about stylish older ladies in New York.

During Harriet’s performance, I couldn’t help but notice a very dapper young man across the aisle from me, wearing the most spectacular rainbow-colored Nikes and accompanied by a remarkable-looking lady. After the show, I found myself standing next to him, looking down at Harriet’s book. Having told him how I coveted his tennis shoes, (even though I would never wear them) our conversation turned to fabulous-looking ladies but it was only once I mentioned the movie I was so keen to see that he reached into his bag and pulled out a book. It was him! Blogger Ari Seth Cohen, writer of ‘Advanced Style’ and soon to be producer-of-the-movie!

There was one more twist that evening: as I introduced Ari to Harriet and Ari showed her the cover of his book, Harriet gasped and began to laugh. It is her aunt, former model Birgit Kroencke Lee, wife of the actor Sir Christopher Lee, on the cover.

The women Ari features in his blog are stylish and dynamic. At the book launch, they all posed like professionals in some incredible outfits. Indeed, many of them are professionals, albeit retired ones. Many of them have a background in the worlds of fashion and art and all choose to live their daily lives as an expression of their personal style. The fabulous lady I met with Ari at the Bard Center that day was the artist Debra Rapoport who looked as if she and Anna Piaggi may have been best of friends.

With a book launched and a film in the works, Ari kindly made time to answer some questions:

Debra Rapoport, Ari Seth Cohen and author Fiona Tedds

Fiona Tedds: What was the inspiration behind starting your blog?

Ari Seth Cohen: My grandmothers were my best friends. One was very stylish and the other was very wise. I wanted to start a project that presented a positive and inspiring image of aging. Older people are made to feel invisible and I thought that it was about time to put them into the spotlight.

 FT: Are there any particular fashions or styles that you find yourself attracted to? 

ASC: I love extremes. For me it’s really about personal style and expression.

 FT: Who were your first subjects and what was their reaction to being photographed?

ASC: It all started out with 94 year-old model and actress Mimi Weddell. She was of course used to being photographed. My process hasn’t really changed much. I approach people on the street and ask if I could take their pictures. I always start with a compliment. Most of the ladies and gentleman are very happy to be involved in my project.

FT: Have you any favorite subjects or stand-out peeps?

ASC: I have become friends with many of the ladies. The readers definitely have their favorites like 92 year old Ilona Royce Smithkin, who wears long red eyelashes made form her own hair and 100 year old, Pilates-practicing Ruth.

Ilona Royce Smithkin photographed by Ari Seth Cohen

Christophe de Menil designer and art collector, wearing her own design, photographed by Ari Seth Cohen.

FT: What have you learnt from the subjects of the blog?

ASC: I have learned to live life to the fullest and embrace who I am. All the women are so active and have such great attitudes towards life. They make me want to do more and I aspire to be like them.

FT: How did you visualize the development of the blog?

ASC: I moved to New York in May of 2008 and started the blog in August. I have always had an affinity for older people and I wanted to start a project that would show that older people continue to dress up and be active and creative. The older people that I noticed on the streets of New York were not only dresses incredibly, but they had wonderful stories to share. All I knew was that I wanted to change people’s ideas about aging. I had no idea how it would be received.

99 Year Old Rose Wearing Her Hermes Studded Belt, photographed by ARi Seth Cohen

FT: Could you talk a little about being a transplant from the West Coast and your view of New York life and style?

ASC: I always wanted to live in New York. My grandma Bluma went to Columbia for grad school in Library Sciences and she always told me that it was the place to be for doing something creative. I grew up in San Diego where people dress very casually, but my grandmother and her friends were always the most elegant. I love the energy of New York. It is a great city for older people, because it forces them to be active.

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Then & Now

(left) Paul Poiret, 1911. The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, from the exhibition ‘The King of Fashion.’ (right) Natalia Grzybowski ‘Hybrid Collection,’ Spring Summer 2012. http://natalia-grzybowski.blogspot.co.nz/

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Then & Now

Today’s Then & Now was put together by Cassidy Zachary. Cassidy recently graduated from the program and will start a job in New Mexico, where she will oversee a collection of costume and textiles. It means she is leaving NY! We hope that she will continue to contribute to the blog, and in any case she will be missed! We wish her all the best in her new adventure!!

here are some of the posts she contributed in the past:

The Art of Exaggeration: the Fashion & Costume of Gaby Deslys

Interview with the curators of Youthquake! The 1960s Fashion Revolution- Part II

January Treasure of the Month:The Golden Age of Pochoir

(left) Fashion illustration, Georges Lepape, 1914. Gazette du Bon Ton. (right) Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Fall 2012

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On This Fashion Day…

“Summer in the U.S.A.” in Vogue, May 15, 1950.

In the 1950s rules for women’s dress were highly particular and often very formal – there was the “right” kind of dress and fabric for every occasion. The exception is summer fashion from the decade when the rules seem to have become more relaxed and women’s dressing much more casual. The casualness of these outfits works because the focus is on American sportswear (I doubt the same reclining poses and laissez-faire attitude would have worked with the Paris collections from that summer!). Enjoy your summer!

Photo by Horst. Playsuit costume: Tattersall checks in linen, with a blaze of red Hamilton Adams linen, Tebilized for crease resistance. Halter, shorts, about $25; jacket about $25: by Tina Leser. Moccasins $11.50. “Pert” lipstick.

“The clothes, Americans, and the sun go together on a holiday.”

 

 

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Then & Now

fellow classmate Tracy Jenkins sent in this timely Then & Now.

Tracy recently presented her paper on the style and transformation of Opera singer Maria Callas at the Fashion & Music symposium in FIT.

(left) singer Maria Callas, 1960. (right) Fashion designer Miuccia Prada, 2012.


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Women in Magazines Conference

I am presenting my paper on the reign of the lingerie dress at the conference ‘Women in Magazines: Research, Representation, Production and Consumption,’ in London this June. Please come and if you are around!

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Then & Now

(left) Models Dorian Leigh and Evelyn Tripp in Clair McCardell’s wool jersey dresses, photograph by Irving Penn, Vogue 1950. (right) John Galliano for Dior Haute Couture,  Fall 2008-2009

I particularly love these two images together because it reflects the identity of the designers who created them. The dress on the right is a wonderful example for the legacy of the House of Dior, and how deeply it influenced John Galliano. Throughout his career at the house he frequently looked back to its history and the early collections  created by Christian Dior himself. On the other hand, Clair McCardell was a modern designer in every respect, always looking ahead. Her designs still look contemporary today. In my point of view she is one of the most important American designers; her modern taste, her effortless chic, and her simple and practical clothes represent the essence of American style.

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Then & Now

(left) Marie Antoinette queen of France,  1779. By Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun (1755 –1842). (right) Kate Moss at the Ritz in Paris. Photographer: Tim Walker, styling: Grace Coddington. Vogue, April, 2012.

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